Home again

Sunday, April 15, 2018

The NJ Turnpike hasn’t changed much. It is just busier and uglier than it was in my youth. I haven’t been over the George Washington Bridge in a long time. Fortunately we picked a very light traffic time to do it since merging across 6 lanes of traffic with the trailer is not fun. As we moved north of the city we went through the river towns of Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow. US 9 goes right through the downtowns. The road is narrow, and tree lined and very old. We had to avoid the “Parkways” leading north due to the trailer.

88 miles today

Monday, April 16, 2018

A very rainy day in suburban New York. We did some errands at Cal’s house and then went out to lunch at a very nice restaurant right on the Hudson River in Ossining.

Tuesday, April 17, 2018

A long slow trip home in occasional drizzle. We had no less than five different traffic tie ups on I-684, I-84, I-90, I-290, I-495, I-95, and I-295. Interstates are not always faster!

…..but we already knew that.

350 miles today

We are looking forward to being completely free of the pneumonia that was like the plague this winter, and best of all, time with our wonderful daughter, son-in-law, and their beautiful growing family.

At home!

Rory and Luci

Blog: https://roryandluci.wordpress.com/

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Another Cape, another ferry

Friday, April 13, 2018

After so much chilly weather, today was a relief. We packed up easily since we were camping off the grid and had no hose or electric cords to put away. We were sorry to leave the peaceful beauty behind us, but it was time to head home. We went back up the peninsula past Kitty Hawk and crossed onto the mainland. Soon Luci was navigating us around Norfolk and onto the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. The original was opened in 1964 and the second lane was added to the bridges in 1999. They are working on adding second lanes to the tunnels. The length is 17.6 miles. The water is between 25 and 100 feet deep.

This Navy ship passed right over us as we ducked into the southern most of two one mile long tunnels. It looks like we are on a collision course!

The gap in the bridge ahead is the northerly of the two tunnels. We traveled up the center of the Delmarva Peninsula on US 13 passing vegetable farms, chicken farms, field crops, and timber. We finally arrived at Cape Henlopen State Park in Delaware.

This is our final campsite of this trip. Cape Henlopen has been completely renovated since we last visited about 10 years ago. It is on the site of a former military installation protecting the entrance to the Delaware River. There are still lookout towers as well as bunkers and a large display of artillery.

262 miles today

Saturday, April 14, 2018

We got up earlier and avoided another road race ending at the ferry terminal and boarded the ferry for the trip across the mouth of the river to Cape May, NJ. This is a very nice trip and we saw three new birds for our trip list. Northern Gannets put on quite a display of diving and soaring. We usually expect to see them off Nova Scotia and the Gaspe. We also saw Surf Scoters and White winged Scoters, both unusual for us.

Felix likes ferries about as much as he does riding in the car. BORING! But, as always, he waited patiently!

We’ve returned to early spring from the late spring / early summer of Florida! We stopped for the night with our good friends Jan and Sue who live in the house I grew up in in Kendall Park, NJ. The town of South Brunswick has changed so much that I made a wrong turn in the village of Dayton about 5 miles from home. I used to ride my bike there as a kid.

144 miles today

On the road

Rory and Luci

Blog: https://roryandluci.wordpress.com/

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Kitty Hawk

Thursday, April 12, 2018

At Oregon Inlet Campground

We spent the morning birdwatching at the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge. We found a nice little Northern Yellowthroat, a Carolina Wren, and a variety of ducks including Blue Winged Teal, Green Winged Teal, Gadwall, Northern Shoveler, Mallard, and Black Ducks.

In the afternoon we visited Kitty Hawk.

The Wright Brothers Monument at the top of Big Kill Devil Hill. Astonishingly, this monument was built only about 25 years after the Wright Brothers flights of 1903. It was a BIG deal! Thousands came to the dedication on the remote barrier island including Amelia Erhardt.

The first flights took place on December 17, 1903 beginning where the camera is.

The first reached the first stone (12 seconds 120 feet) piloted by Orville Wright.

The second flight reached the second stone (12 seconds 175 feet) piloted by Wilbur Wright.

The third flight reached the third stone (15 seconds 200 feet) piloted by Orville Wright.

The fourth flight reached the last stone (59 seconds 852 feet) piloted by Wilbur Wright.

This sculpture shows Orville lying on his belly piloting the plan and Wilbur steadying the wing as it took off for the first time. The whole sculpture also shows the helpers and photographer who recorded the event.

Standing on the beach watching the sun set and the first star over the dunes at the Oregon Inlet Campground.

On the road

Rory and Luci

Blog: https://roryandluci.wordpress.com/

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Cape Hatteras

Wednesday, April 11, 2018

After a leisurely breakfast and taking advantage of the campgrounds excellent Wifi we headed north about 14 miles to the end of the island.

We took the free ferry across Hatteras Inlet to Hatteras Island. Although the inlet is not very wide, the ride took about an hour because we took a very circuitous route following the dredged channel. As soon as we landed we visited the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum. It had a lot of material from the Civil War but also had relics from shipwrecks from the 1700s to today.

This is the famous Cape Hatteras lighthouse. In 1999 it was determined that the lighthouse was in danger of being washed away by the sea. So they moved it about 2900’ to the southwest. It was jacked up 7’ and rails were laid under it. It was then lowered onto a dolly on the rails. Next sections of rail were leapfrogged ahead and the lighthouse moved about 5’ at a time. It took 23 days to move it to its current location. The circular stones in front of where I’m standing are the original base stones for the lighthouse. Now they are placed to form an amphitheater. The granite stones are engraved with all the lighthouse keeper’s names.

We continued north through the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge. The ocean easily over-washed this dune and the road during the first of four northeasters just five weeks ago. The Visitor Center just to the left was nearly washed away.

It is a mind boggling constant struggle to keep Route 12 open. Sand is constantly moving the dunes, and the ocean routinely wipes sections of dunes out and washes over the highway, rearranging the pavement. The road on Hatteras wasn’t paved until the 1960’s. The State is building a new high bridge over Oregon Inlet (between Hatteras and Bodie* Islands. (*pronounced like “body”, not “Boe-die”)

We finally settled down at the nearly deserted National Seashore Oregon Inlet Campground. It is lovely and the ocean is just a walk across the dunes. This is our first night on this trip off the grid.

On the road

Rory and Luci

Blog: https://roryandluci.wordpress.com/

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Ocracoke

Monday, April 9, 2018

We packed up in the rain for the first time on this trip. Soon after leaving the madness of Myrtle Beach behind we crossed into North Carolina on US 17. As we continued north, the rain got steadier and heavier and the wind picked up. The temperature didn’t budge from 46 degrees. Luci navigated us around Wilmington and Jacksonville and Camp Lejune and we were headed northeast to Pamlico Sound. We finally crossed a long bridge and an even longer marsh land and arrived at Cedar Island, NC. We stopped at the end of the road at a little mostly vacant “RV park”. It is next door to the ferry terminal and across the road from Sharkey’s Bar and Grille. In fact, Sharkey’s is the “office” for the campground. We put on sweaters and rain coats and ventured out for a little bird walk. The beach and wetlands will be a perfect place for shorebirds when the wind dies down and it warms up.

We were amused that this area is called Down East. We know better!

These Snowy Egrets were seeking shelter from the wind and rain just behind our trailer.

222 miles today

Tuesday, April 10, 2018

It was still windy, cloudy, and cold but not raining when we got up. We boarded the 10:30 ferry for 2.5 hour trip to Ocracoke Island in the Outer Banks. The Outer Banks are a famous thread of barrier islands along the North Carolina coast. The islands are, from the north, Bodie, Hatteras, Ocracoke, and Portsmouth as well as a number of smaller islands. Cape Hatteras National Seashore occupies large portions of the first three and Cape Lookout National Seashore occupies much of Portsmouth Island. Only the first three are accessible by car. Ocracoke is a small quaint resort community. It must be a madhouse in the summer but off season (like now) it is pretty quiet. We set up camp at a small commercial campground just off the ferry.

This map shows the Outer Banks and our route. With hundreds of shipwrecks offshore, the area is called The Graveyard of the Atlantic. The most recent was 1967.

We are camped next to the British Cemetery in Ocracoke. Four British sailors are buried here. The cemetery is maintained by the National Park Service, the US Coast Guard, and the British War Graves Commission. More than 80 ships were sunk by German U-boats off the Outer Banks in 1942 alone.

The Ocracoke lighthouse, North Carolina’s oldest, was erected in 1823.

Not exactly beach weather, but beautiful just the same. The beach goes on for miles and miles and miles!

1 mile by car and 25 miles by ferry today.

On the road

Rory and Luci

Blog: https://roryandluci.wordpress.com/

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

1718 Brewing

Just in case you thought we didn’t go to breweries anymore. This one is on Ocracoke Island, NC

Sent from Rory’s iPhone

Categories: Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Myrtle Beach, SC

Saturday, April 7, 2018

We made the relatively short trip north on Route 17 without incident. There was a “bridge run” over the Ravenal Bridge over the Cooper River in Charleston which 40,000 people took part, but we managed to avoid it. Route 17 went through the Francis Marion National Forest and was very pretty but had few views of the Atlantic. Even though we had struggled to get reservations for a campsite at Myrtle Beach State Park, there seemed to be plenty of empty sites. Perhaps the rainy weather forecast scared people off. We went for a walk after we set up but soon it began to rain. With the rain came a cold front. I’m glad we have a heater!

When we checked in, the ranger warned us to wear closed toe shoes (no flip flops) and use a flash light after dark. There are signs to the same effect in many places through the park. It seems that copperheads are common here. They are protected by law. Fortunately, neither we nor Felix saw any.

106 miles today

Sunday, April 8, 2018

At Myrtle Beach State Park, SC

We bundled up! It was 39 and windy but sunny when we got up this morning. During the day the wind died down, but the temperature only reached 55.

The park is nestled under the loblolly pines and live oaks right behind the dunes.

This Willet was playing in the surf looking for snacks.

Felix is just playing.

The beach was beautiful and right on the edge of the city of Myrtle Beach, about 6 miles of high rise hotels and condos on the water. We drove up the strip development which is no different than Ocean City, Seaside Heights, or Old Orchard. Not exactly our cup of tea.

On the road

Rory and Luci

Blog: https://roryandluci.wordpress.com/

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Charleston, SC

Wednesday, April 4, 2018

We packed and left Georgia behind us heading up I-95. About 30 miles south of our destination we got off the big road and headed east on US 17A. Generally, we like these two lane highways and this one was very nice with pine woods on both sides and very small communities and side roads. And then everyone stopped. There was no traffic from the other direction except passenger cars turning around. There was very no shoulder to speak of and deep ditches on both sides. There was no way I could turn our rig around, so we waited, and waited, and waited with the big trucks. It’s nice to have our own travelling potty! Nearly got out our grill and beer…. About 2 ½ hours later we started moving again and soon passed the site of a bad wreck strewn across the road. So much for getting to Charleston early! We are camping tonight at the North Charleston KOA. This is our first commercial campground on this trip. We’ve been spoiled by spacious State Parks!

213 miles today

Thursday, April 5 and Friday, April 6, 2018

Our KOA is about 15 miles north of downtown Charleston. Like any big city it can take anywhere from 20 to 120 minutes to get anywhere. Traffic was heavy, by our standards, but we managed to get downtown both days. We found a very nice parking garage at the Gaillard Center for the Performing Arts near where we wanted to be. This works out very well for Felix because it’s shaded and cool with comfortable temps. We left some windows open and he curled up and went to sleep while we visited the Ft. Sumpter Visitor Center. We also spent parts of both days walking around the old part of the city. It was charming. The well-to-do built beautiful homes!

A mansion in old downtown Charleston.

Many of the older houses are quite narrow, tall, and deep. Luci referred to them as two windows and a porch wide.

This is the view of Fort Sumpter from Fort Moultrie. It is about 1 ¼ miles across the mouth of Charleston Harbor. Fort Moultrie was important in the Civil War, but much earlier, the first battle here was in the Revolution. In 1776 General William Moultrie built a fort out of palmetto logs and sand and mounted several batteries of guns. He drove off a British fleet of nine ships commanded by Admiral Sir Peter Parker and Charleston remained in the colonists’ hands for another four years. In 1780 the Brits and Cornwallis prevailed. The fort is named after Moultrie and he is buried here.

This is the remains of Castle Pickney, a Civil War era fort in Charleston harbor, flying the Stars and Bars.

Fort Sumpter started the Civil War as a three story brick fort like the drawing above. It was surrendered almost intact to the Confederates in 1861. In 1863 the Union landed on Morris Island across the harbor and began to shell the fort. 22 months later all that was left was a mound of rubble (below). The boat trip to the isle of Fort Sumpter was also great with dolphins bobbing in the water, and laughing gulls and pelicans leading the way.

We visited Magnolia Plantation on the banks of the Ashley River. Founded in 1676 it was the home of the Drayton family and is the last large scale romantic style garden in the US. Unlike most gardens which are formal and seek to control or at least restrain nature, these gardens intersperse Azalea, Camelia, and other flowers and shrubs with the natural woodland and swamps. Meandering paths and statuary in little cul de sacs were charming.

On the road

Rory and Luci

Blog: https://roryandluci.wordpress.com/

Categories: Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Crooked River State Park

Sunday, April 1, 2018 thru Tuesday, April 3, 2018

At Crooked River State Park, St. Marys, Georgia

We spent three days and four nights at this small but lovely little park. There is a large estuary here shielded from the Atlantic Ocean by Cumberland Island (a National Seashore). The island is a mixture of wild seashore and ruins of mansions of the old south. The National Park Service runs a ferry to the island but doesn’t allow dogs on board, so we did not go. The town of St. Marys, GA is directly across the St. Marys River from Amelia Island, FL. We did not see any pink Easter bunnies, but Luci did spy a beautiful pink Roseate Spoonbill flying over the marsh.

Our campground is bordered on the south by the Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base. This is an active base, but the closest we got to a submarine was this mock -up at the front gate. The USS George Bancroft was a ballistic missile submarine in service from 1966 to 1993.

Nearby on the Florida side, Fort Clinch is on the north end of Amelia Island, Florida. Across the St. Mary’s River is the south end of Cumberland Island National Seashore. Fort Clinch was started before the Civil War. It was seized by the Union forces and work continued but was not finished by the end of the war. It was later garrisoned in the Spanish American War and used as an observation post in both World Wars. It is a huge, mostly brick pentagon, and reminded us a little of Fort Jefferson on the Dry Tortugas in the Gulf of Mexico off Key West.

This pretty road leads into Fort Clinch. The live oaks made a beautiful canopy of shade. The trees were dripping in Spanish moss, and ferns grew abundantly on the horizontal branches. Following the advice of a local person, we found an outdoor restaurant on the beach for lunch where pets are permitted. Felix loved it! And was very good.

These ruins are the remains of a tabby sugar mill built by John Houston McIntosh soon after 1825. Note that the walls appear to be cut blocks of limestone deeply embedded with sea shells, in a “pre-fossil” rock formation.

Looking north across the estuary from our campground at a passing thunderstorm.

Tomorrow we will be slowly heading north….and trying to stay off I95!

On the road

Rory and Luci

Blog: https://roryandluci.wordpress.com/

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Rainbow Springs State Park

Thursday, March 29, 2018

Before we left Rainbow Springs State Park Campground, Luci, Felix and I went for a long walk including the sinkhole trail. Underground limestone caverns fan out and extend upstream from the springs. If the caverns are relatively close to the surface there is a risk of the overburden collapsing. From the evening news, these sinkholes happen often. It’s caused by extracting too much ground water (wells), or too much weight (buildings). One sinkhole, called the Catfish Hotel, is filled with water going down 90+ feet. The surface is covered with duckweed. Divers have discovered catfish 90 feet down. It’s part of an extensive watery cave system. Who would have thought to dive down under the duckweed to begin with!???

Back at our campsite we packed up and headed southeast to Rainbow Springs State Park and scored a nice site on short notice. We must have lucked in to a cancellation.

Rainbow Springs is the largest first magnitude spring in Florida with millions of gallons of water bubbling up daily. We both went swimming here. It is a constant 72 degrees and much colder than the Liard River Hot Spring in the Yukon where I swam last summer! The water is as clear as it looks and is surprisingly deep.

61 miles today

Friday, March 30, 2018

At Rainbow Springs State Park, Dunellon FL

Today started off sunny and bright with a nice outdoor breakfast including fresh Florida citrus.

Then we headed east a bit to see if friends Karl and Debbie had a house lot in a swamp. They’ve been paying taxes on it for years but have never been there. Turns out it’s not bad at all! It’s in a planned community, dates back awhile, and is about 25% built out. The lot looks kind of “native Florida” wild but is actually on a bit of a tiny hill – well a mountain by Florida standards where everything is so flat. When you encounter a rare hill, there are signs announcing, “Hill Blocks View”! Duh! Luci said she was expecting a “Caution .002% grade ahead next 500 feet” on the other side of the mountain….

At the end of the day it was cool, cloudy, and a little drizzly, the first rain we’ve had in Florida. We visited the Gulf of Mexico one last time at Crystal River.

Saturday, March 31, 2018

We awoke late after a restful night listening to the light but steady rain on the roof of the trailer. We packed up and drove north on US 301 from Ocala, grudgingly hopped on I-95 for 2 exits just over the Georgia state line. We settled down at the tidal Crooked River State Park on the north side of St. Mary’s River. It was breezy and cool. There were warblers in the woods and after dark we heard a chuck-will’s-widow, a birdy cousin of the whip-poor-will. It was right outside our door!

158 miles today

On the road

Rory and Luci

Blog: https://roryandluci.wordpress.com/

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Blog at WordPress.com.

Design a site like this with WordPress.com
Get started